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Welcome back, DERM Community.
Last week’s issue on botulinum toxin sparked an incredible response. Many of you shared how refreshing it felt to see Botox discussed not as a trend or moral debate, but as what it truly is: a medical tool, grounded in evidence, nuanced in its application, and deeply shaped by patient perception. Thank you for the thoughtful messages, reflections, and appreciation, it reminded us why these conversations matter.
That discussion opened a broader question worth exploring further: if even one of the most studied treatments in dermatology can be culturally misunderstood, what happens when skincare itself becomes a cultural identity?
Over the past decade, skincare has evolved from a routine into a form of self-expression…
What once lived quietly on the bathroom shelf is now a language that reveals how people think about health, beauty, control, and belonging.
Skincare trends rarely emerge from science alone. They are shaped by culture, emotion, aesthetics, and the human desire for certainty. While movements like K-beauty and Tretinoin-core appear radically different, both blend valid dermatologic principles with exaggerated narratives.
For clinicians, the challenge is not rejecting trends outright but understanding where evidence ends and aesthetics begin.
K-Beauty: Ritual Meets Barrier Science
K-beauty marked a turning point. It introduced the Western world to the idea that skincare could be gentle, preventive, and ritualistic. At its best, it aligned closely with sound dermatologic principles.
What was evidence-based
Emphasis on gentle cleansing
Consistent moisturization
Early normalization of daily sunscreen
Barrier-supportive ingredients such as ceramides and humectants
Avoidance of harsh soaps
These practices helped patients understand the skin barrier long before it became a clinical buzzword.
Where aesthetics took over

Common clinical consequences
Irritant contact dermatitis
Barrier dysfunction
Acneiform eruptions from occlusion
Patient confusion around product necessity
K-beauty offered comfort and control, but often at the cost of restraint.
Tretinoin-Core: Science with a Social Media Filter
Then came the counterculture: dermatologist-led minimalism.
“Tretinoin-core,” as it is now called online, celebrates prescription actives, clinical authority, and simplicity. A single tube replaced the shelf of serums. The tone shifted from pampering to purpose.
What is strongly evidence-based
Retinoids remain the gold standard for acne, photoaging, and dyschromia
Long-term safety and efficacy are well established
Minimalist routines often improve adherence and reduce irritation
Where the narrative breaks down

Normalizing irritation as proof it is working
Undermining the role of moisturizers and barrier repair
Prescription sharing without supervision
Framing skincare as discipline rather than biology
Common clinical consequences
Retinoid dermatitis
Poor adherence due to intolerance
Fear-based avoidance of supportive care
Delayed diagnosis of underlying dermatoses
Here, control comes from logic and proof, but sometimes loses empathy.
What Evidence-Based Skincare Actually Means
Evidence-based skincare does not mean fewer products at all costs, discomfort as a rite of passage, or one routine for every patient.
It does mean matching actives to diagnosis, adjusting treatment to individual skin biology, respecting tolerance and lifestyle, and using the least aggressive effective approach.
Actives with the Strongest Long-Term Evidence
Ingredient | Indications |
Retinoids | Acne, aging, dyschromia |
Sunscreen | Photoaging, skin cancer prevention |
Azelaic Acid | Acne, rosacea, PIH |
Benzoyl Peroxide | Acne |
Niacinamide | Barrier support, inflammation |
Ceramides | Barrier repair |
The Clinical Takeaway
Trends change the language patients use, but not the biology of skin.
K-beauty and Tretinoin-core are not opposing forces. They reflect how different generations seek control in an overwhelming world, one through ritual and softness, the other through science and certainty.
For dermatologists, understanding these cultural shifts is essential. Patients do not arrive with just a skin type. They arrive with a skincare identity shaped by online narratives.
Meeting them where they are requires both rigor and empathy.
Science earns trust.
Empathy sustains it.
We’ve Put Together a Free Guide Just for You!
This guide is designed to help clinicians quickly identify how a patient relates to skincare, spot trend-driven red flags, and reframe evidence-based care in a way that patients can accept and follow. The goal is not trend compliance or trend rejection but alignment between skin biology, patient values, and realistic outcomes.
Looking for a Job?
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Here are some job postings you may find interesting:
Nurse Practitioner or Physician Assistant ($95/hour) | Part Time | On-site | WellNow Urgent Care • Oneaonta, NY | Apply here
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Psychiatric Nurse Practitioner | Part Time | On-site | Middlesex Recovery, P.C. • Salem, NH | Apply here
Nurse Practitioner or Physician Assistant ($80/hour) | Full Time | On-site | WellNow Urgent Care • Cicero, NY | Apply here
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Book Recommendation of the Week
The Courage to Be Disliked unfolds as a dialogue between a philosopher and a young man, who, over the course of five enriching conversations, realizes that each of us is in control of our life’s direction, independent of past burdens and expectations of others.
Inspiration of the Week
"Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better”
👋🏻 See you next Thursday, DERM community!
In the end, skin biology remains constant, even as trends evolve.
Culture shapes how patients interpret care, but science must guide how we deliver it.
Our role is not to dismantle skincare identities, but to translate them into treatments that are effective, humane, and sustainable.
Science earns trust.
Empathy keeps patients with us long enough for it to work.
See you next Thursday, DERM Community!
— The Derm for Primary Care Team






